The coffee-houses introduced somewhat more refinement and less
exclusiveness. The oldest of these was the 'Grecian.' 'One Constantine,
a Grecian,' advertised in 'The Intelligencer' of January 23rd, 1664-5,
that 'the right coffee bery or chocolate,' might be had of him 'as cheap
and as good as is anywhere to be had for money,' and soon after began to
sell the said 'coffee bery' in small cups at his own establishment in
Devereux Court, Strand. Some two years later we have news of 'Will's,'
the most famous, perhaps, of the coffee-houses. Here Dryden held forth
with pedantic vanity: and here was laid the first germ of that critical
acumen which has since become a distinguishing feature in English
literature. Then, in the City, one Garraway, of Exchange Alley, first
sold 'tea in leaf and drink, made according to the directions of the
most knowing, and travellers into those eastern countries;' and thus
established the well-known 'Garraway's,' whither, in Defoe's day,
'foreign banquiers' and even ministers resorted, to drink the said
beverage. 'Robin's,' 'Jonathan's,' and many another, were all opened
about this time, and the rage for coffee-house life became general
throughout the country.
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