No attempt at interference was made on the part of
the French. There were but few French soldiers about, and what there
were, were evidently mere spectators. Pontifical gendarmes passed along
the road at frequent intervals, and, not being able to arrest a
multitude, consoled themselves with the small piece of tyranny of closing
the _osterias_, which, both in look and character, bear a strong
resemblance to our London tea-gardens, and are a favourite resort of
thirsty and dusty pedestrians. The crowd, nevertheless, remained
perfectly orderly and peaceful, and as soon as the carnival-time was
over, returned quietly to the city. As I came back from the gate I
passed through the Corso just before the course was cleared for the
races. I have never seen in Italy a rabble like that collected in the
street. The crowd was much such a one as you will sometimes meet, and
avoid, in the low purlieus of London on Guy Faux day. Carriages there
were, some forty in all, chiefly English. One hardly met a single
respectable-looking person, except foreigners, in the crowd; and I own I
was not sorry when I reached my destination, and got clear of the mob.
Yet the report of the police of the Pope was, that the carnival was
_brilliante, e brilliantissimo_.
On the following day (Friday) much the same sort of demonstration took
place in the Corso.
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