Wishing
him joy of his bride and his serenade, I returned to my more quiet
bed, and slept soundly until morning.
While dressing, I amused myself in reconnoitering the populace
from my window. There were groups of fine-looking young men in the
trim fanciful Andalusian costume, with brown cloaks, thrown about them
in true Spanish style, which cannot be imitated, and little round majo
hats stuck on with a peculiar knowing air. They had the same
galliard look which I have remarked among the dandy mountaineers of
Ronda. Indeed, all this part of Andalusia abounds with such
game-looking characters. They loiter about the towns and villages,
seem to have plenty of time and plenty of money: "horse to ride and
weapon to wear." Great gossips; great smokers; apt at touching the
guitar, singing couplets to their maja belles, and famous dancers of
the bolero. Throughout all Spain the men, however poor, have a
gentleman-like abundance of leisure, seeming to consider it the
attribute of a true cavaliero never to be in a hurry; but the
Andalusians are gay as well as leisurely, and have none of the squalid
accompaniments of idleness. The adventurous contraband trade which
prevails throughout these mountain regions, and along the maritime
borders of Andalusia, is doubtless at the bottom of this galliard
character.
In contrast to the costume of these groups was that of two
long-legged Valencians conducting a donkey, laden with articles of
merchandise, their musket slung crosswise over his back ready for
action.
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