Surrounded by this motley concourse, we move
out of Fondi: bad bright eyes glaring at us, out of the darkness
of every crazy tenement, like glistening fragments of its filth and
putrefaction.
A noble mountain-pass, with the ruins of a fort on a strong
eminence, traditionally called the Fort of Fra Diavolo; the old
town of Itri, like a device in pastry, built up, almost
perpendicularly, on a hill, and approached by long steep flights of
steps; beautiful Mola di Gaeta, whose wines, like those of Albano,
have degenerated since the days of Horace, or his taste for wine
was bad: which is not likely of one who enjoyed it so much, and
extolled it so well; another night upon the road at St. Agatha; a
rest next day at Capua, which is picturesque, but hardly so
seductive to a traveller now, as the soldiers of Praetorian Rome
were wont to find the ancient city of that name; a flat road among
vines festooned and looped from tree to tree; and Mount Vesuvius
close at hand at last!--its cone and summit whitened with snow; and
its smoke hanging over it, in the heavy atmosphere of the day, like
a dense cloud.
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